Horses and Hurricanes

In the wake of Hurricane Harvey in Texas, now is probably a good time to go over Natural Disaster Preparedness. Better late than never, right?

I feel confident I can write a good article here. My ranch is near San Antonio, Texas and was originally in Hurricane Harvey's path. Thankfully, it changed course and we faired very well. I also weathered Hurricanes Francis and Jeanne on the Florida coast. I have experience with big storms.

To evacuate or not? In the case of Hurricanes, we usually have a few days notice if we will be in the projected path. (And of course, that's subject to change)

The first decision to make is whether or not to evacuate. If you can leave, it's important to remember that possibly thousands of others will be on the road with you. You will need to bring extra fuel with you, as many people run out while sitting in gridlock traffic for hours and hours. Fuel becomes hard to find in the days before a storm hits. You will need to make arrangements to board your horse for several weeks in an area away from the storm. It's often a week or more before residents are allowed to return to disaster areas. Pack feed, hay and medications accordingly. You also need to have your horse's Coggins and important papers with you. Pack that trailer with your valuable horse gear like saddles. Anything left behind is subject to water damage and theft by looters. Once you are safely evacuated, sit back and stay glued to the weather channel. Do not attempt to return home until local authorities say it's ok. You may need documents such as a driver's license to get back into your neighborhood.

In many cases, evacuation simply isn't an option. Maybe you don't have a horse trailer, or maybe you have more horses than slots in your trailer. In my case, I wasn't able to evacuate Florida because I had to work before, during and after the storms. I guess I was considered essential personnel, as I was a zookeeper. (Much like horsemen, zookeepers are on duty 24/7 rain or shine). So, perhaps your job is keeping you in the storm path or there's simply no place to safely evacuate to. There are so many reasons why evacuation may not be possible. I understand that and pass no judgement to those who hunker down and weather the storm. Be prepared for a LOT of work in the days prior and after. Be ready for STRESS STRESS STRESS. But most importantly, be prepared...

Stock up what you can. Hay and grain is going to be hard to come by. You want to get as much as you can to last you at least 2 weeks. Even when the storm settles, getting supplies is difficult. Feed stores may not be open and you may not even be able to get to them. Storage is key. You need to keep your hay and grain somewhere dry. A lot of people stack it on pallets in the garage, the guest bathroom, or wrap it tightly in tarps in the barn/feed room. Make sure you have an emergency box ready to go. Horses will pick the worst time to get cut and your Veterinarian may not be able to get to you for several days. You need to be able to handle any minor injuries on your own. Have an ice chest (or 5) full and ready for your food as well as any refrigerated equine medication.

Stalling depends on your barn. If it is not rated for a Catagory 3+ storm and there's any chance it's going loose it's roof, turn your horse out. The last thing you want is a horse trapped inside a collapsed barn with no one to help get him out. My horse hunkered down during Francis and Jeanne in a barn built to withstand Hurricanes. He got lots of extra hay in his hay bag to keep him occupied, standing bandages just in case he got loose or was frantic in the stall, and a fly mask to protect his eyes from flying debris and dust. I'm happy to report that he only had to deal with a soggy stall and was not washed away. Some barn mates also choose to put earplugs in the horses ears. Hurricanes are extremely loud and this extra precaution can be comforting for some equines.

(Photo by: Lacee Keller)

Try to park your truck and trailer away from trees or structures that may blow away (metal carports). If they fall, you don't want them on top of your only way to get out. Bring your valuable tack inside or place them up high and cover with plastic sheeting or tarps. Check with your insurance company....is your saddle covered in case of storm damage? Do you have good photographs of your high dollar tack items?

Electricity and water will be out for days. Fill up a few big water troughs so you can continue to offer fresh/clean water to your horse in the coming days. This is a big one that is often overlooked. Water is going to be very important and hard to come by, especially in the large amounts that horses require.

Bug spray will be worth its weight in gold. All the bugs will be out and looking for shelter and food. This includes mosquitos, flies, fire ants, roaches and whatever else you can think of. Have fly spray ready for your horse, bug repellent for yourself and spray for the hoards of ants. Note that wildlife may try to enter your home and barn as well. Be cautious and also understanding of their situation as well. If you come across injured wildlife, contact your local Fish and Game when you can.

Have your rubber boots and lots of fresh socks ready to go. You will basically be living in them for weeks. Baby powder will help keep your feet dry.

If your horse is turned out: Do not leave a halter on him. He could get hung up, especially in a flooding situation. Do not write your phone number on his hooves....think of the mud that will be caked on his legs and feet. Your best bet is to spray paint your phone number on his body. You may also braid luggage tags into his mane, but keep in mind that they can be removed by bad people or pulled out by debris. Have photos of all sides of your horse with his paper work in case you need to claim him from a good samaritan or animal shelter. Up close photos of any brands or distinctive markings is also a great idea to have ready.

In a flooding situation, it's best to move your horse to high ground as quickly as possible. This means you have to enter the flood water, and that is dangerous. Be mindful of submerged debris, holes, hazards and of course the overload of harmful bacteria in the water. Be safe and do what you can to get your horse out of floodwaters. As hard as it is, animal lives should never take precedence over human lives. Do not put yourself in a dangerous situation ever. Many people die in Natural disasters because they knowingly put themselves in harms way. Please don't risk your life. Horses who endure days stuck in water are often susceptible to skin infection and hoof disease. Prevention is best but not always possible.

(Photo by: Lacee Keller)

After the storm has passed, sigh a big sigh of relief. You and your horse have survived! Clean up can take weeks or months, but you made it! Having plenty of supplies on hand will make post storm work much easier and less stressful. Many people will be around to offer assistance and support. Let your family and friends know that you're safe and let them know of specific items you need. Knowing what to expect and being prepared for anything will make everything easier. Stay safe out there!

For fun and helpful articles, please like my Facebook page, The DIY Equestrian. 

If you would like to donate to the horses and their caretakers, please consider donating to:
https://www.usef.org/media/press-releases/donate-to-usef-equine-disaster-relief-fund

Recognizing Colic Symptoms

Colic. It's a fear provoking word. Just the thought sends shivers down the spine. We all worry about it, but will we recognize the symptoms?

First and foremost, never ever hesitate to contact your veterinarian if you think your beloved horse has a belly ache. Time is of the essence during a colic. Recognizing symptoms early can help save the horse's life.

Colic in horses is simply, abdominal pain or discomfort. There are many reasons why colic happens, but in this article we will discuss how to spot the symptoms.

The most recognizable colic symptom is uncharacteristic laying down. This is often followed by getting up and laying down repeatedly. Many colicing horses will also roll. Rolling is no good for a sick horse, as this violent reaction to pain can cause Torsion or "twisted gut". Torsion can also be a cause of colic in the first place. Immediate Veterinary care is required and treated with emergency surgery. Torsion is fatal without treatment. Laying down, getting up and rolling over and over is a response to pain. Call your veterinarian immediately.

Pawing, kicking the belly and biting at the flank are more signs of tummy troubles. Again, we are looking for behaviors that aren't typical for your horse. If Blaze paws in the cross ties on normal days, you're probably in the clear. Don't be alarmed if Flicka kicks at a fly or has an itch on the flank. Does your horse keep looking at its side?....this can be a sign of distress. You should be looking for repetitive, irritated responses to pain, and not environmental factors like flys. 

Excessive sweating during rest is a colic symptom. Know your horse's normal vital signs. An adult horse's temperature will be between 99°-101°F. Pulse ranges from 28-44 beats per minute. Respiration is 10-24 breaths per minute. Gums and tongue should be pink with a capillary refill of 2 seconds. Normal gut sounds are gurgles with an occasional roar. Silence is what you do not want to hear. Pain will trigger vital signs to increase dramatically, causing him to sweat. Practice taking your horse's vital signs when he is calm and resting. Invest in an equine thermometer and a set of stethoscopes. Take them with you when you travel. (Emergency box....possibly a good idea for my next article).

Often, the first symptom we notice in a colicing horse is a lack of appetite. A colicing horse will usually have no interest in food or water, including treats and grass. Check for fresh feces in his stall or paddock. Know how frequently your horse poops and what a normal pile looks like. Absence of poop is a sign of problems.

If you believe your horse is colicing, call your veterinarian immediately. While you wait, continue to monitor him as long as it takes the veterinarian to arrive. Secure your horse with a halter and lead rope and walk him. A slow paced walk is effective. Allow your horse to stop and graze if he wants to and offer water frequently. Don't offer feed or hay. Do not let him stop and paw or try to lay down. If you are transporting your horse to the clinic, resist the urge to ride in the trailer with him. This is dangerous for you! Do not medicate your horse without your veterinarian's approval first.

Know your horse's normal, every day behaviors and routine. Sometimes, the slightest changes can indicate a problem. Understanding what is normal will help you determine what is unusual for your horse. So, get out there and practice taking vital signs so you'll feel confident in the event of a problem. While I certainly hope you don't have to deal with belly aches, it's always best to be prepared. 

And that's a wrap!

Every equestrian should master the skill of utilizing standing bandages. They are handy in everyday uses but can be critical in emergencies.

Standing bandages are a combination of polo type wraps and quilted fabric bandages.

Polo wraps are made of fleece, have a velcro closure and come in multitudes of sizes to fit any size horse. They come in any color or pattern you could possibly imagine. Match them to your barn colors, go with basic black, bright white, explore your wild side with animal print, or go crazy with tie dye!

The cotton quilted bandages come in tons of various types as well; including color, texture and size. The basic quilt is simple cotton fabric. Pillowed bandages will have a cotton fill and feel thicker and softer. Some have a foam filling, providing more cushion and conforms to the leg. Some are moisture wicking and some are "No Bow" and stay in place very well. They are usually sold in pairs and can range in price from $10-$80.

Both polo wraps and quilts are easily machine washed and dried, making them easy to keep clean. Just roll them up when they're not in use for space saving storage.

I am well stocked in classic Polo Wraps. I have many colors, but I prefer black because they show less dirt. They are typically 4.5 inches wide and 9 feet long. This size works great on horses 15 hands or larger.  For horses in the 13-14 hand range, don't be afraid to cut a bit off the end of your wraps to keep them from becoming too bulky. Polos are even available for miniature horses and small ponies. They are always available in sets of 4 and usually cost about $15.

How to apply a standing bandage: Place your bandage material against your horse's leg. It should go from below the knee to below the fetlock. Unroll the bandage from the horse's head side towards the backend of your horse on both front and rear legs. Be mindful that there are no wrinkles or folds in the layers, as these can be irritating and rub the skin. (Think of a wrinkle in the bottom of your socks....yuck!) Use even pressure gently all the way around. Bandages that are too loose can fall off and too tight could lead to an injury. To secure the bandage, next you will apply the polo. Wrap in the same direction, starting from the top, downward, with equal pressure, starting 1 inch below the bandage. Leaving bandage material peeking out ensures that you don't accidentally cut off the blood flow to the leg. Overlap your polo by 1/2 all the way down, ending 1 inch above the bandage material. Continue your wrap back up the leg until you reach the velcro closure. It's important to remember, if you wrap one leg, always wrap the opposite leg as well. This provides equal support on both legs. You don't want your horse leaning on one side or the other creating imbalances. Never leave standing bandages on longer than 24 hours without rewrapping. 

Standing Bandages sound like something a horse needs in an emergency or after an injury. Yes! That's exactly how these handy wraps came to be. We all know how accident prone our horses can be. Say your Trusty Steed decided to find something in his paddock to cut his fetlock on...applying a standing bandage will keep the wound clean, keep ointments in place and pesky flies away. In an emergency situation, a standing bandage can be a life saving tourniquet until the veterinarian arrives. They are also great for horses who stock up in stalls during a long horse show, by adding extra support and increased circulation.

Use those standing bandages to protect the legs during trailering. They offer extra support through turns, bumps and breaking. We've all seen photos of trailer accidents and know how awful they can be. Horses with standing bandages are less likely to have lower leg injuries. They may also come into great use if the horse has to be cut from the trailer. No matter how short the trip is, I always use standing bandages in my trailer.

If you happen to haul your horse to a show, I recommend leaving the bandages on the horse overnight. New surroundings can present freak stall accidents. Legs with all of that extra padding are less likely to get stuck in portable stall walls or between vertical stall bars. And even if Ol' Faithful never gets into trouble, bandages will add support and prevent stocking up.

Many people use standing bandages in place of splint boots during exercise to support tendons and ligaments. They can be very useful during rides in thick brush and grass. They'll keep burs, stickers and thorns at bay. Some people even use them as fly boots during pasture time in spring and summer, or to prevent leg injuries during turn out.

And that's a wrap! (Pun intended) Next time you are at the barn, get out your polos and quilts and wrap up those legs. As the saying goes, 'No wheels, no horse.' Protect those wheels in all kinds of situations. Happy wrapping, y'all!

#TheDIYEquestrian #PoloWraps #LegProtection #StandingBandages #LegWraps

You can lead a horse to water...

Summer is definitely upon us. It's hot hot HOT out there! Here in South Central Texas we are reaching temperatures in the 100° mark with miserable humidity and ridiculous indexes. Riding outside in the sun must be completed by 10AM as not to risk heatstroke. Even still, we sweat, we are sticky, we are red and exhausted....we are slathered in a mixture of sunscreen, sweat, alfalfa and dust. At the end of the day, I am definitely ready for a shower.

All of this hot weather reminds me of the old saying, "You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink". It's true, we can't force our horse to hydrate, but there are things we can do to encourage him to wet the ol' whistle.

How much does a horse drink in a day anyway? An average healthy horse should slerp up 5 to 10 gallons every day. A horse in a strenuous exercise program may drink more. Know your horse's regular drinking pattern. If you use old fashioned buckets and tubs like I do, you'll have a good idea of how much he drinks or if he stops drinking. Always have fresh, cool, clean water available for your horse. Nobody wants hot water in the summer, so check the temperature of outdoor tubs, making certain they are cool and clear.

Staying hydrated is key for both you and your equine buddy to feel good and have good workouts together. I admit that I prefer to reach for a cold Dr. Pepper, but I know water hydrates me and keeps me going in extreme heat. Your horse may not want to drink water either, but there are a few tricks that may persuade him to guzzle a gallon.

I add Equine Electrolytes to my horse's feed. Twice daily. Every day. Year round. Each horse gets 1 teaspoon of electrolytes top dressed onto the grain ration, morning and evening. The electrolytes are salty in taste and encourage a quick quinch at mealtime. They also help to replace minerals lost through sweat that are vital for your horse to perform at his best. Some picky eaters will nibble around the odd tasting electrolyte powder. No problem! Just add a dab of molasses and put your electrolyte powder on top....mix well into the grain...Picky Eater becomes pleased with a sweet treat.

Another fun idea to encourage drinking is simply adding fresh apples or carrots to the water tub. Assuming your trusty steed likes these healthy treats, anyways. Apples and carrots float and encourage the horse to investigate. That often leads to the challenge of getting a hold of said treat....zoo keepers would call this Enrichment. It's a way to change up your horse's everyday boring water and make it fun! This often leads to head dunking, splashing, pawing and bubble blowing. All the play leads to water consumption, but also gives Mr. Ed something to think about.

I hope you have fun scrubbing buckets this weekend and remember to try a few ideas to keep Flicka drinking water, and staying cool. (As if they weren't super cool already) Of course, call you veterinarian if you believe your horse is not drinking enough. Cheers!

                              Electro Dex

Add 1 teaspoon to grain rations daily

Carrots and Apples 

#TheDIYEquestrian #Electrodex #EquineElectrolytes #YouCanLeadAHirseToWater #HydratedHorse